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跟着火车走,慢游加拿大 [复制链接]

发表于 2015-6-8 03:54:43 |显示全部楼层
此次旅程始发点是建于1915年至1920年的豪华多伦多联合火车站。火车站正面面向皇家约克酒店,由加拿大太平洋铁路建于1929年。出发前不妨来这里的library bar小酌一下,古典优雅气氛配上酒店特制精酿的啤酒,穿越时空之旅完美开启。
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当列车十点钟准时从union station缓缓驶出,一场横穿加拿大4424公里的旅行在夜幕里悄然开始。挥别炫彩的CN塔,火车离多伦多越来越远,灯光消退于夜色。铺好的床上,放有浴巾和洗漱用品,还有一块甜甜的巧克力。第一次在移动的火车上洗热水澡,感觉甚为良好。晃悠着入睡,满怀着小雀跃。
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美丽洁白的餐厅,假日模式开启于香喷喷的蛋饼和咖啡。眼前已经没有了农田,而是满眼葱翠的白桦和松柏,继而是不时遇到的湿地、沼泽和小河。Skydome四面玻璃观景车厢里,目不暇接的与景色相遇和分别。跨越法国河,位于蒙特利尔和苏比尔湖之间重要的皮毛贸易线路上,铁路沿岸的小河上还不时看到海狸的坝和家。中午时过了镍都sudbury,路两旁时断时续的林木处处有人工采伐的痕迹,伐木和木材加工厂依然是当地很多社区的支柱产业。河流和湖泊遍布在这偏僻的安省北郊,隐约可见的猎人小屋,有些早已废弃不用,因为当动物洞悉他们设下的陷阱,就会迁徙,而猎人也要随之转移。每年夏天还是有一些猎人、渔夫和前来露营的人沿线上下火车。火车蜿蜒在湖边山林,仿佛走进了seven group的画廊,明礁、河流及成群湖泊等切割而成的稀薄土壤养育了北方茂密的森林,是加拿大别具特色的风景线。在进入大草原之前,数不完的树连着树,湖连着湖,至此对安省拥有世界上1/4的淡水资源再无质疑。过了Collins,时钟往回拨一小时,但是依然在安省境内行进。终于到了Hornpanye小镇,这个一千人人的小城还是以伐木为主。冬季气温可以低到零下450十度,即使夏季看来也是满眼荒凉,火车离站,才算挥别延绵不绝的安省。
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看过无数白桦树和湛蓝湖泊后,景色开始大不一样了。取代安大略省丛林的是马尼托巴省农场,平地一望无际,与天相接。经过一片空旷之后,温尼伯地平线出现了。温尼伯在印第安语里为两河相交之意,该城正是依偎在红河(Red River)与阿西尼伯恩河(Assiniboine River)的交汇处。温尼伯地处整个加拿大的地理中心,是从东部进入大草原地带的门户,加拿大中南部最大的工商业城市和交通要枢,是大西洋岸和太平洋岸的中点,也是加拿大国家铁路及加拿大太平洋铁路的交汇点,数千年以来一直是繁华的贸易中心。不过熟知这个城市,还是源于一个可爱的卡通人物小熊维尼。这头有名的小熊最初出自英国儿童文学作家A·A·米尔恩(A.A.Milne)创作的漫画故事。米尔恩以他的儿子克里斯托弗Christopher及其众多玩具创作了许多漫画故事,而小熊温尼是其中的主角,它的名字取自当时伦敦动物园展出的一头黑熊的名字温尼(Winnie)。这头可爱的黑熊的故乡便是遥远的温尼伯,人们用他故乡的简称来称呼它。后来这一形象又被迪斯尼发扬光大,变成了一只穿红衫的黄色小熊,成为几乎家喻户晓的迪斯尼明星。据说温尼伯应该有很多熊的雕像,可惜这次停留时间太短,没有时间去探望那只在温尼伯动物园里的原装像。
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通常火车会在此停留四小时,足够逛逛当地独具特色的达霍斯市集(Forks Market),或者到集奢华与古典于一身的 Fort Garry 酒店来顿精致美味的早午餐。但是,由于加拿大的客车VIA是租用货车CNCP的铁路,因此货车享有优先权。每遇到单行线需要错车的时候,客车就被放到另外的线上等货车先行。夏季货运繁忙,行行停停的火车,已经晚点10个小时。为了赶时间,除了必要的补给和乘务人员更换,半小时的停留,只能在夜幕下一瞥那造型独特的加拿大人权博物馆和为纪念Louis Riel而命名的Esplanade Riel大桥(欧洲人18世纪起开始来温尼伯从事贸易,早期的欧洲移民和原住民通婚后,形成了被叫做Metis的人种,他们在这里以打猎和贸易为生。1869-70年,温尼伯发生了由Louis Riel领导的Metis人,与新的、来自东部的欧洲人的冲突。暴乱平息之后,双方达成了缅尼托巴协议,缅尼托巴成为了加拿大的第五个省,这时加拿大刚刚立国三年),还有那宁静典雅的联合车站,据说这也是由世界上最大的纽约中央火车站家族建筑师设计建造。

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出了温尼伯,火车继续徜徉在一望无际的大平原。收割后的田野一片金黄,一捆一捆的干草卷静静地等人回收,作为家畜冬天的食物。偶见农场的房子隐约在小树林之中,想来是为了抵御冬天呼啸冷峻的风雪吧。铁路两旁还有些许破败多彩的谷仓,更多的则是高大集中的混凝土塔楼,可谓加拿大粮仓最佳标的物。

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一路西向,穿过萨斯卡通市,会出现更多的崎岖山地,农场变成牧场,星星点点的牛羊悠闲地“大快朵颐”。

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到达亚伯达省会埃德蒙顿后,著名的360度全景观光车厢Panorama Dome Car被加上,在站台上看它的安装过程,期待着本次旅程的高潮篇章落基山脉的美景。

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夕阳慢慢沉下,暖暖地洒在蜿蜒的车厢上,闪着银光,橘红色的晚霞映着渐渐高大的山林,火车徐徐前进,夜幕不知不觉降临。由于晚点,本该白天抵达Jasper镇,只能在月色下远观。19世纪时这里还是一个毛皮交易小镇,到1911年铁路通车后贾斯珀开始兴旺起来。作为著名旅游胜地,凌晨1点的酒吧依然人头攒动,而车里却一片寂静。一杯红酒,一轮明月,星光点点,也是另一个天堂。

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在晨光熹微中绵绵延伸的落基山脉,每次转弯都会出现迷人的风景。原想在许多山峰之间辨别某个特定的山峰应该并不容易,但罗布森山(海拔3954米,落基山脉最高峰)却很突出,冰雪覆盖着山顶在晨光中耸立。空旷的田野上漂浮着薄雾,云杉和松柏遍布,天空中乘着气流盘旋而过的长鹰,咖啡加美景,唤醒了恍惚的神经。

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经过甘露市不久,汤普森河就融入了坎卢普斯湖泊,湖泊上会有绿头鸭、斑鸠和鱼鹰等动物。过了Lytton,是汤普森河及弗雷泽河交汇之处,可以清晰看到泾渭分明的界限。磅礴湍急的弗雷泽河水奔腾向前,菲莎河峡谷极其狭窄,两岸各只容得下一条铁路线,一边地势较平坦的已经被加拿大太平洋铁路占领,加拿大国家铁路就只好修建在另一边,这就要求更高难度的工程建造,铁道线上有很多隧道和雪崩庇护所。无法想象一下当初人们是如何在一个多世纪前完成的这条山脉铁路,不仅壮阔不凡,更从此改写了加拿大的历史。
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当火车挤过地狱之门(Hell's Gate)峡谷时,无数漩涡打转,据说狭窄的峡谷是由于国家铁路修建爆破引发的山体滑坡,这也给每年三文鱼回流带来巨大障碍。因此,加拿大渔业也在此修建了帮助繁殖期鱼儿上溯回游的鱼梯。谷口巨型黑岩--Lady Franklin Rock,是为纪念探险家富兰克林的遗孀富兰克林夫人来此寻找走失丈夫时命名的“寻夫石”。接下来,火车到达菲沙河谷,这里为温哥华餐馆供应奶制品及其他丰富食材。

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4424公里的最后一站是位于温哥华的加拿大国家铁路线终点站,开放于1919年,太平洋中心Pacific central)的霓虹灯闪耀在火车站上近一个世纪。四天的旅程,到此画上完美的句点。
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与其羡慕别人的幸福,为何不让自己眼里充满幸福?最好的风景在路上,坐火车慢读加拿大,别样体验!

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