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舌尖上的穿越 --- 从伦敦到布达佩斯

已有 1025 次阅读2014-5-21 06:53

作为加拿大历史最悠久的城市之一,伦敦市的历史可以追溯到1793年。尽管是加拿大第十一大城市,但行走其中感受到的则是祥和而宁静。

 

在市中心384 Dandus Street有一家不容错过的饮食地标,布达佩斯餐厅。开业58年,是伦敦市历史最悠久的餐厅之一。踏入店门,酒红色调的古典华丽装潢,带有浓厚匈牙利民族特色的壁画,以及身着传统民族服饰的木偶,仿佛坐上了时光机走入充满异域风情的布达佩斯。红色天鹅绒的幕帘隔出一个个半开放的私人空间,现场演奏的五六十年代老歌浪漫迷人,在味蕾开始旅行前视听感已经开启了时空转换的机关。

 

匈牙利美食文化之所以是特别的,因为历史原因不仅使其混入了法国与斯拉夫烹饪精华,还以独特的方式融入了亚洲与土耳其的传统。通常匈牙利菜口味较浓重,尤为著名的就是匈牙利红椒粉(Paprika),它由红甜椒烘干再研磨成粉制成的,颜色从橘红色到深红色都有,味道有甜的、微微的辛辣和烟熏的各式各样。

 

在说着一口浓郁的匈牙利腔英语的帅哥服务员的推荐下,点了本店备受推崇的“布达佩斯”套餐。热腾腾的浓汤内料丰富,卷心菜的甜度与肉肠的浓香融合的相当好,这道温馨的汤很像一首温馨的乡村音乐,喷香的汤汁将美味串联在一起,绕口余香回荡在舌尖。

 

开胃菜除了浓汤,还有著名的匈牙利烤香肠。香肠烤的外焦里嫩,用面包卷了沾着黄酱吃,一道重口味大餐就这样开始了。

 

看着眼前的盘子,不难断定匈牙利一定是一个无肉不欢的国度。这主菜就是是匈牙利经典菜色的集合,一小块金黄色的维也纳炸肉排(Wiener Schitzel),与之前在bloor街上吃过那家的相比,外面的面包粉比较细,肉片是薄薄的一大片,但是口感比较平实而简单。相较于日式炸猪排少了些深度和层次,也相应减轻了那么油腻的负罪感。

 

还有匈牙利炖牛肉(Goulash)绝对是不能错过的经典食品。牛肉和土豆、洋葱等炆煮,佐以Paprika (即紅椒粉)及其他香料调味。加有匈牙利辣椒粉的汤汁呈鮮紅色,但是真的不是很辣,微微甜辣的汤汁增加了牛肉的醇香,不知是否火候未到,还是这家的烹饪特色,并没有法式红酒炖牛肉那般入口即化的口感。

 

所谓经典荟萃,就少不了卷心菜肉米卷(Toltott Kaposzta),肥瘦肉比例拿捏刚好,口感不会发柴,吃的出蔬菜和肉类混合的鲜甜感。再配上用鸡蛋、盐跟面粉制成的手工迷你“面疙瘩”和一点蔬菜沙拉。

 

最后再来上一份很像面包布丁般的苹果蛋糕,外表朴实、入口绵密,虽然不像法式或维也纳甜点看起来那么风华绝代,但也是值得在肚皮撑破前舍命地来上一块的。

 

讲究吃的国度,通常都不会怠慢味蕾对美酒的要求。匈牙利是葡萄酒王国,欧洲最好喝的葡萄酒当中有许多都出自匈牙利。为搭配这么经典的菜色,女主人就推介了著名的艾格尔公牛血葡萄酒Eger Bull’s Blood

公牛血葡萄酒是一种库威(cuvee)酒,产于匈牙利的东北部山区---Eger,其独特的火山土质和温暖的气候适合多种葡萄的生长:赤霞珠、梅洛、贵人香等,品质极其优良。

说起这酒的来历还有着一段荡气回肠的动人故事。相传,Eger城堡始建于公元13世纪.故事发生在1552年, 15万土耳其军队大举进攻Eger城,Istvan Dobo上尉率领当地2000多军民与其对抗,在敌我力量如此悬殊的情况下,匈牙利勇士们与土耳其军激战了一个多月,击退了敌人一次又一次的进攻;终因敌众我寡,城破在即。新的一轮进攻即将开始,Eger军民饱餐畅饮,喝的便是当地特产的美酒。这种酒是由多种葡萄酿造而成的,色泽浓艳如血。匈牙利勇士们借着酒力勇猛地冲向土耳其军队;Eger人个个面红耳赤,很多人甚至在脸上和盔甲上都涂洒了葡萄酒。迷信的土耳其人见状,误以为他们脸上涂的是公牛的鲜血,他们惊恐万分,四散而逃,溃不成军……最终成功的击退了来犯的土耳其人,这就是世界战争史上以少胜多的著名战例——Eger保卫战,也就是“公牛血”葡萄酒的由来。从此,Eger的红葡萄酒,便以“公牛血”扬名天下。

 

在烛光佳肴和温浓轻柔的音乐下,公牛血酒并没有激发战斗欲望,相反这绛红色的液体散发着浓烈的香气,口感丰富,清爽干烈,香气醇厚,尾韵悠长。

 

这一场饕餮盛宴如果没有可爱的女主人,还不能称得上完美。她叫Marika Hayek 1957年从匈牙利来到加拿大,和丈夫一起经营这家餐厅已经超过半个世纪。丈夫已经逝世,但是她依然坚持365日全年无休地每天来店里打理内外。她会亲切地走在客人身边风趣幽默的闲聊,也会为你细心地提供点餐意见,并为客人量身选曲。琴师称她为最佳DJ,实不为过。

 

看着墙上各个时期Marika的照片,从清秀佳人到银发奶奶,以及和她相伴一生的帅老公的生活点滴,她把一生的爱都倾注在这里,在异国他乡打造一个梦幻般的美味天堂。

 

如果你来伦敦,不要错过这个绝对超值的欧洲游,抱一下这位可爱的美味天使Marika

 

 

 


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